Craig Luebben 攀岩自救课录像注释――4。救援（未完）（转自山野论坛）

金丝猴 · 发表于 2002-6-7 17:26:10

主题：Craig Luebben 攀岩自救课录像注释――4。救援（未完）
 版权所有：岩石衍生物原作　提交时间：07:03:14 06月02日
 
 
 
 
 RESCUE
 The situation is hard, this is the anchor on climbing you are. Take this situation, but what else we will do is , say imagine my partner is climbing below me, and 10 meters below me right now. And a rock just fall, just miss me and hit them, hit their arms very hard and they can be bleeding very hard, they can’t climb because they are hurt. So someone still be bleeding really bad, you can stop the bleeding by a strong direct pressure an the wound. So what you need to do is you get down, and give them strong pressure on the wounds. And maybe I shall tell them first “find a tape ,put it strong direct on your wound, and I get down to you.” And the first thing is if the situation is very stressful and emergent, you have to take some time to relax, you have to take a minute to plan. If you just start doing things, you might mess up, and you might waste 15 or 20 minutes, take to wonder 2 minutes, take your brain out, just relax. Think about what the problem is, think about what you know, how to do, think about what you have to do, and then tell them, say :”ok, it’s ok.” Try to be very calm, if you going out:” Oh, man, you fucked! Oh, shit! What will I do? What am I going to do?” Then the stress is going to be very high.(Oh, no, this is on recording

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 这个情况比较的棘手，假设这是我们攀爬中用的锚点，想象一下出了这样一个状况，我们应该做些什么。假如说我的搭档正在我的下方攀登，在我下面十米的地方，这时突然一块石头掉了下来，没砸到我，砸到了他的胳臂，以至于流泻不止不能继续攀登。如果有人流血不止，你应该用力的压住他的伤口，这样的话你就得先下去帮他们止血。或者你我可以告诉他们先找一块绷带自己压在伤口上。但首要的是如果情况非常的严重而且紧急，你必须先放松下来，花一分钟计划一下。如果你马上就开始着手干这干那，很有可能搞得一团糟，可能会浪费15，20分钟更多的时间。所以花两分钟用脑子好好想想，放松。看看问题到底出在哪里，你知道如何做吗，你必须做什么，然后告诉他们说：“没事，会好的。”试着语调放得平静，如果你上来就：“天！老兄，你受伤了！见鬼！我怎么办？我该怎么办？”这样的话只会让你觉得压力越来越大。（哦，不，这也录进去了）
 Normally, I use a cordlette to do ,but I what to show a different way to you guys, because you don’t usually have cordlette here. So now he is hurt below me, first I need to do is to free my hand. An absolutely fastest way to do is just wrap the around my leg, if it doesn’t slide. But there is a little more way is that you guys should learn anyway , it is called the Mule Knot.
 一般情况下，我都用cordlette来做救援，不过现在我用另一种方法来做（只用绳套），因为你们不经常用cordlette。好现在他在我的下方受伤了，首先我得先把我的双手解放出来。绝对最快的方法是将主绳缠在腿上，要保证不会滑脱。但是有一种更安全的方法，大家无论如何都要学会的，叫做Mule Knot（我叫它固定结）。
 So if I fasten the rope to here, here is a little trick that it doesn’t have anything to do with you escape the belay like this. If you are belaying someone, and they are hanging below, and you are getting to be tired for holding them, just hold it like this, you can hold them, almost no strength on your hand, and you can send the rope, they are feeding ,feeding. But if you have to hold them for 10 minutes as you grasping here, you waste your strength. So you can just put it like this ,and it doesn’t matter ,we can do it. And then pass some rope through the carabiner, and I take a coil. So you think about is there is there is one rope going into the device, one rope going out of the device, the two are together, and the coil with the third strand underneath below both of them. And then I go through here, in English, we call it a slide knot, because you can easily pull it and untie it .Ok, I don’t want to rely on and trust your life on only this, you want to back it up ,back it up very fast, now it is very safe. This is a really good way, if you are belaying someone, and you can hang in the rope for two men, you can tie in like that ,allow your hand to do something. (Can you come again?)
 好，如果我把绳子这样收着（将绳子从铁索中掏过来），这是一个小技巧，可并不代表你不认真打保护。如果你给人打保护，他在下面挂着，你觉得这样拉着他很累（一般的制动姿势），你就可以这样做，手上几乎不用什么力气，然后你可以这样子来抽绳，送绳。如果你用一般的方法拉着他们十分钟，就会很累了，那是白费力气。所以我们可以这样做，一点问题都没有。接下来，把绳子穿进大锁，并做一个绳圈。看好这里有一根绳子从保护器进来，一根绳子从保护器中出来，这两根绳子并在一起，做完绳圈之后第三根绳子搭在前面这两根的下面，然后将第三根从绳圈中穿过，在英文中我们叫它slide knot（我叫它易抽结），因为它一抽就出来非常的好解。好了，我可不想仅仅信任这一个结，把你的性命也寄托其上，我得很快打一个副保护，好现在安全了。这是一个非常好的方法，如果你在给谁打保护，用这个结下边吊两个人没问题，你可以腾开你的双手做别的事情。（在做一遍好吗？）
 
 
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