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骆驼峰登山事故报告

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发表于 2005-3-28 17:13:08 | 显示全部楼层

感谢两位的工作

关于骆驼峰的攀登记录:
1994年9月底-10月初,美国人Charlie Fowler登顶东\西峰.
相关的文字说明
  "Demin Ma,Sorry for the delay, I've been very busy and I will be leaving home for several weeks on Friday.  The story I've sent you is based on my original report of the climb, as published in the American Alpine Journal 1996, pages 310-311, a report I sent Tamotsu Nakamura (same one I sent to you earlier), my personal recollections of the climb and new information about the peak names and altitudes. Attached are a few photos which show the approximate location of routes I climbed. One photo shows me at camp below Celestial Peak in 1994.

Siguniang Shan
  In 1994 I spent four months traveling and climbing in China.
  With Paula Quenomoen I visited Hong Kong, Guangzhou, Beijing, Kashgar and Lhasa;trekking and climbing along the way.  From Lhasa we flew to Chengdu; this was at the end of September.Paula continued on home to America, but  I stayed in Asia for another month, traveling alone.
  In Chengdu I came across a picture book about Siguniang, which showed some remarkable looking peaks.  This was the first time I had heard about this mountain area.  So from Chengdu I got a local bus and traveled to the town of Rilong in the Qiong Lai mountains northwest of Chengdu.   
  This area, on the edge of the Wolong Nature Preserve, is
quite accessible and very scenic.Celestial Peak,a stunning rock pyramid first climbed by an American team in 1984, was the most renowned peak to outsiders.
  Celestial Peak, however, is overshadowed by the highest peak of Siguniang, a stunning fang of rock and ice and
certainly one of the most beautiful 6000-meter peaks in the world.
  I spent nearly three weeks in the area, exploring and climbing alone.Based out of the nearby village of Rilong, I made several exploratory trips up the Changping Valley into the heart of the range.
  On my first outing I hiked past Celestial Peak and Siguniang Shan,establishing a camp at the head of the valley below three fine peaks.Hiking up trails and pastures used by local yak herders,I established another
camp just below the glaciers spilling down from the Peaks.  
  The next day I climbed a moraine ridge to the glacier descending from the twin peaks known as Luotou, or Camel Peak (5484 m).I climbed up the glacier to the saddle separating both peaks, climbing the east summit first then the west peak, both by straightforward, easy routes, mostly snow and ice.

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骆驼峰登山事故报告 jjyfoot 2016-01-01
照片1:骆驼峰-羊满台峰全景 jjyfoot 2005-03-28
感谢! kv 2005-03-29
谢谢晨峰和jjyfoot的报告。 小杜 2005-03-28
照片2:扭曲的背包支架 jjyfoot 2005-03-28
照片3:登山、下撤路线、坠落线和关键地点 jjyfoot 2005-03-28
问题:这个图片标注的坠落线是怎么确定的? gula 2005-04-02
一口气读完,久久不能平静…… 玄武岩 2005-03-28
看完后鼻子发酸,晨峰和JJYFOOT辛苦啦~~~谢谢!! 不悔 2005-03-28
感谢 豌豆 2005-03-28
辛苦了,深表感谢 阿土 2005-03-28
感谢两位的工作 roof 2005-03-28
辛苦了。 清澈 2005-03-28
深表敬意。感谢! 乐事 2005-03-28
由衷的敬佩与感谢! nb800 2005-03-28
很详细的报告! 履星家 2005-03-28
如果登山,就做一个严肃的登山者。 6000米 2005-03-28
辛苦了.写的很详细,希望给准备登山的山友一个警示,珍惜生命. 斜阳3464 2005-03-29
致敬! 十一郎 2005-03-29
敬礼! 永远的纳木错 2005-03-29
辛苦! 小A 2005-03-29
用最柔软的身躯对抗最坚硬的山脊, 除了对实现梦想的渴求和勇气还需要太多的东西啊.心里说不出的酸楚, 感谢两位! 鼓风的翅膀 2005-03-29
感谢 卡巴 2005-03-29
致命的诱惑 mudplayer 2005-03-29
TO BE OR NOT TO BE 米达麦亚 2005-03-29
与死神掷一次筛子 nb800 2005-03-29
滑坠保护 mudplayer 2005-03-29
感谢晨峰和jjyfoot的详尽报告! 并请教“未结绳队”的可能原因是什么? mef 2005-03-29
未结绳队的原因和结组的理由 jjyfoot 2005-03-29
多谢指教!并再请教:老K单人负重偏大(20KG)、老K与三哥间距偏小是否诱发雪崩的重要因素? mef 2005-03-29
效果是肯定有的 北黑我谁 2005-03-29
受教了! mef 2005-03-29
负重不是主要问题,但确实应该一个一个过。 jjyfoot 2005-03-29
不好意思,还有点儿疑问: mef 2005-03-29
结组绳没那么长的 jjyfoot 2005-03-29
说道老K他们横切的位置suger snow较为明显,这种情况下在雪面上设保护点是否有效。 枫野扬天 2005-03-29
SUGER SNOW设保护点当然无效,找合适的露石,或挖开雪到冰上设点。 jjyfoot 2005-03-30
多谢答复!受教了! mef 2005-03-30
这样的情况下结组可能也并不就是一个比较理想的选择 小杜 2005-03-29
非常感谢! Hunter 2005-03-29
辛苦,感谢 小李 2005-03-29
受教,谢谢。 yuandian2004 2005-03-29
翔实客观费心之作啊,读者受益非浅 原上草 2005-03-30
学习了,谢谢! 0919草帽 2005-03-30
感谢! helen1 2005-03-30
致敬、感谢、学习! 三0七 2005-03-30
白日放哥 2005-03-30
大峰 白日放哥 2005-03-30
JJY 辛苦 大家都努力吧 不要再看到什么事故报告了 final 2005-03-30
值得学习,非常感谢晨峰&jjy! 唐门暗器 2005-03-31
非常详细的报告,谢谢! gula 2005-04-02
多谢让大家分享如此宝贵的经验 mudplayer 2005-04-02
非常感谢前辈难得的经验!牢记在心! 高原风 2005-04-02
感谢前辈共享经验,血的教训啊 米达麦亚 2005-04-03
唐先生吗?“收藏武功是会贬值的”---一句电影台词 孔老二 2005-04-04
你们应该早贴出来 mh 2005-04-09
对两位敬佩并感谢!这是慰籍逝者和教诲生者的最佳方式。受益匪浅。 大花猪 2005-04-23
敬礼! 单立人 2005-05-20
感谢 信风 2005-05-21
一路小心~~ 淼淼_lin 2006-04-29
骆驼峰不是四姑娘的幺妹峰。 jjyfoot 2006-05-07
谢谢,我知道了,看来我真的是不懂...惭愧...下次一定再认真些~ 淼淼_lin 2006-05-08
非常感谢!看后鼻子有些酸。 bingdian0797 2007-01-05
test laaface 2007-04-11
谢谢。很好。好好读过。 老―牛 2007-05-07
没想到 小菲好同志 2012-09-28
怀念老K zoujilin 2018-05-26
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