Craig Luebben 攀岩自救课录像注释――3。下降和用最少的装备上升（转自山野论坛）

金丝猴 · 发表于 2002-6-7 17:34:28

Craig Luebben 攀岩自救课录像注释――3。下降和用最少的装备上升
 版权所有：岩石衍生物原作　提交时间：18:06:50 05月30日
 
 
 
 
 RAPPELING
 When I want to rappel down,…. Then I put a rappel device here,and then I have got to make another friction knot here .And there is a knot I tied ,put the knot off here, if a stitch ,put stitch off, I don’t want the stitch wrapped in the Autoblock.
 For friction knots , it is important to keep them nice and tidy, nice and clean,then I don’t want to twist them all make a ?,I want to make it beautiful. If I just make it clean ,it is easier to look at and
 Know that I get the right thing. And also it is going to grasp better. So stand up and slide this one down, and see it is loose ,right? So take this one off.
 如果我想下降下去，就把下降器装在主绳上，然后我得再做一个抓节（自锁结，autoblock）在下降器的下面，注意不要把绳套上的绳结或是缝合处打到结里面。
 对于一个抓节来说，最重要的是要打得干净整洁，可千万不要把它卷的七扭八歪的，要把他们打得漂漂亮亮的，这样也很容易看清楚他们是否正常的起作用，而且一个好结能抓得更牢。
 好现在站起来，把最上面这个抓节拉下来，看它是松的，这样你的重量就从抓节转移到下降器上了，然后就可以把用cordlette打的抓节解开了。（注意，这时你可以双手松开绳制动端，是因为有那个自锁抓节在下降器的下面替你制动）
 
 CLIMBING ROPE WITH MINIMAL GEAR
 Uh,this is in real life ,this is my tie in here(harness),is not ,I don’t climb(tie in with a carabiner). And I don’t this time because it take too much time. If I only have a little bit gear, so I make a Prusik, and then test it if it will lock, and then I make an overhand knot, and put a carabiner here. I did this only once before ,but it is really crazy.(what that carabiner for ?)You will see. So I have that I have slide this high enough. Cos you climb with a single rope and you fall in a overhanging ,you will hanging ? ,and you don’t have much gear ,all you have is belay device and this one is hard, it is not easy at all. And in the U.S., lots of people are very fat, right? If he is clinging ,a good climber will time in oil,? With dinners.
 So I climb back to the route, then clip into the bolt in ,then my partner can take a slack. So you guys can practice this. If you try to study it ,and then tomorrow I have something else to promise ,but you must can work out this.
 如果是真实攀登的话，我可不能用大锁连接八字结和安全带，必须直接用八字结和安全带连接，现在我是为了节省时间才这样做的。如果我只有很少的装备，我们如何沿绳上升呢？好，我还是先打一个普鲁士结，检验一下是否锁住，再打一个单结（在绳套上靠近结的地方），在单结上面扣进一个锁。我以前这样干过一回，但的却是太疯狂了。（那个大锁是做什么用的？）一会儿你就知道了。然后，我把这个普鲁士结推导最高的地方。（为什么要会用最少的装备上升）因为如果你是用单绳攀登，然后你在一个仰角的脱落了，你吊在那儿，没法回到线路上，你手里应该没有那么多的装备，顶多是个保护器，用这么少的东西来沿绳上升是挺辛苦的，一点也不简单。你们知道在美国，有很多大胖子，（做这个对他们来说尤其艰难）。
 如果他对攀岩很执著的话，就得抵御住美食的诱惑。
 等你上升回到路线上以后，就把自己挂道保护点上，这时你的搭档可以把绳松一点了（刚才的过程中保护者要一直处于制动的状态中）。大家可以好好连一下这个，你先把这个连熟了，明天我保证演示更多的东西，但大家要先把这个掌握住。
 
 
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