trip your gear to the bare necessities, and you’ll be surprised how much faster you can climb. Remove the frame from your alpine pack and replace it with a folded-over foam pad. This saves weight and allows the pack to flex. 怎样在多天攀登中背得轻些? 文/Dave Sheldon 当你在装包准备花2至3天阿尔卑斯式攀登象Rainier或者Grand Teton这样的山峰，你很容易会说：“我最好多带上这件夹克，以防万一。”但是这样做的后果通常都很一致：沉重的背负使你减慢了攀登速度。 有经验的攀登者都知道“轻装前进”，但这并不意味着只背个小包――而是涉及到减少每盎司的重量，你的帐篷，炊具，背包等等。运用以下提示让你的背包变得精简，将你的力气用在应付路线本身的挑战。 ・称一下你的背包和睡垫。从你的背包开始：如果有铝架和塑料板背垫，（把它们抽掉）替换成折叠的泡沫垫。在你行动的时候你的背包将会更合拍。在夏季的岩石路线，你可以在露营地拔出泡沫垫睡在上面。当然比起一个两磅重的充气垫你会没那麽舒适，但是省下的重量将会在你攀登的时候得到回报。如果在冲顶日之前，你得睡在雪地上，或者说你不愿意收起豪华的装备，那麽带上一个一半长度的充气垫。露营的时候，把腿放在空的背包和绳子上，躺或者坐在充气垫上。 ・扔掉所有你不需要的东东。你真的需要一双额外的袜子？牙刷？头灯备用电池？和你的同伴商量是否可以共用唇膏，小刀，急救包等等。对于有疑问的物品，（把它）清理出来。 ・穿上所有衣服睡觉。这样你可以带一个轻一点的睡袋，在早上也不至于乱糟糟地穿你的衣服。相等重量的高质量的羽绒产生最好的隔热效果。但是请记住羽绒湿了之后会变得一无是处。在比较长的潮湿天气路程中，一个合成填充的睡袋会是一个更好的选择。不太注意你选择的睡袋，那麽带上一个为混合技术路线准备的露营袋，两个露营袋的重量也比一顶帐篷轻，利用平坦的岩面作为露营的平台。冰雪路线背上一顶单层帐，在雪地上通常比较容易找到一个良好的营址，打好所有的保护好在老天爷发怒的时候救你一命。 ・简化你的炊具。只带上一个锅（铝或者钛合金材料），把碗碟留在家里。你可以带上一个较轻的气炉，而不是一个比较重的液体燃料炉。每天只吃一顿热饭，并且要容易准备，混合了速食土豆、汤料和几勺黄油的食品比较简单，而且能够提供足够的能量。 ・审查你的装备。用Hex替换掉机械塞，带上重量较轻的丝扣铁锁（wire-gate carabiner）。有可能的话，和攀登过该路线的哥们聊聊，以确定该带哪些装备。 ・使用更轻的冰镐和冰爪。冰镐重量在10至30盎司（285克―850克）之间，带上最轻的一支，但得可以做出滑坠制动，砍出步阶等等。同样的，一对行走冰爪比一对攀冰冰爪要轻出一磅（454克）的重量，而且走起来更舒服一些。 三天攀登的个人装备清单 ・去掉支架置换成泡沫背垫的轻型背包（40升）； ・气炉和一个锅； ・一个勺子和杯子； ・30华氏度（-1.18摄氏度）的睡袋； ・轻量冰镐； ・半爪或全爪； ・行走冰镐； ・头灯； ・半式气垫（雪地宿营用）（选项） Strip down ― how to pack light for overnight alpine routes By Dave Sheldon When packing for a two- or three-day alpine climb on peaks like Mount Rainier or the Grand Teton, it's all too easy to say, "I'd better bring this extra jacket, just in case." But the result is always the same: a heavy load that only slows you down. Experienced alpine climbers know that "going light" doesn't mean just carrying a small rack ― it involves paring every ounce off of your shelter, cookset, pack, clothes, etc. Use the following tips to put your pack on a celery diet, and keep your strength for the challenges of the route itself. Scale back your pack and sleeping pad. Start with your pack: If it has aluminum stays and a plastic frame sheet replace them with a folded-over foam pad. Your pack will actually climb better because it will move with you when you reach and bend. On summer rock routes, you can pull out the foam pad at the bivy site and sleep on it. You'll be less comfortable than on a two-pound air mattress, but the weight savings will pay off when you climb. If you will be sleeping on snow or have the luxury of stashing your gear at a high camp before summit day, take along an extra half-length inflatable pad. At bivies, put your feet on the empty pack and the rope, and sit or lay on the pad. Throw out everything that you don't need. Do you really need an extra pair of socks? Your toothbrush? A spare headlamp battery? Talk to your partner and agree to share the lip balm, knife, first aid kit, etc. When in doubt, leave it out. Sleep in all your clothes. You can then bring a lighter sleeping bag and won't have to mess around putting on layers in the morning. High-quality down often yields the most insulation for its weight. But keep in mind that down is useless when wet, making a synthetic-fill bag a better choice for extended wet-weather trips. Regardless of the sleeping bag you choose, take bivy sacks for technical rock and mixed routes. Two bivy sacks weigh less than a tent, and turn just about any ledge into a sleeping platform. Carry a light, single-wall tent for snow routes, as it's usually easy to find a good tent site in snow, and having full protection can be a lifesaver if the weather turns sour. Simplify your cooking system. Take only one pot and lid (made of aluminum or titanium), and eat from those ― leave the bowls and plates at home. Can you get away with an ultra-light canister stove instead of a heavier liquid-fuel stove? (See Equipment last issue for a complete stove review.) Plan on eating only one hot meal a day and make sure it is easy to prepare. Instant potatoes mixed with a soup packet and a few spoonfuls of margarine are simple and provide good energy. Scrutinize your rack. Replace a few cams with hexes, and carry light wire-gate carabiners (see Alpine Tech Tip last issue for more on alpine racks). If possible, talk with someone who has done the route to determine exactly what gear to bring. Use the lightest ice axes and crampons. Ice axes range in weight from about 10 to 30 ounces; bring the lightest one you can get away with and still use to self-arrest, chop bollards, etc. Also, a pair of semi-flexible crampons can weigh a full pound less than a pair of rigid waterfall-ice warriors, and a bit of flex makes for more comfortable walking. Personal equipment list for three-day alpine route: Light backpack (4000 cubic inches) with suspension stripped and foam pad placed in back panel Canister stove with one pot and lid per party One spoon and mug 30-degree down sleeping bag Bivy sack Light mountaineering axe Semi- or fully flexible crampons Headlamp Half-length inflatable pad for sleeping on snow (optional)