Craig Luebben 攀岩自救课录像注释（b2）（转自山野论坛）

金丝猴 · 发表于 2002-6-7 17:24:35

主题：Craig Luebben 攀岩自救课录像注释（b2）
 版权所有：岩石衍生物原作　提交时间：21:38:35 06月02日
 
 
 
 内容包括锚点的设置，沿绳上升，下降，救援受伤的跟攀者。
 
 打字打的手都麻了，希望对大家有用，一定要看录像呀，我们山鹰社的ftp上有
 162.105.81.116,先下载太慢的话，就到老铁那里买光盘吧。
 
 INTRODUCTORY
 Uh,just I guess the first I want to say ,have a grave situation ,if you are climbing at the moment you ? a route,and something happens,…,somebody will get in bad situation eventually.And if you know how to do it,you can get out of it easily.
 In sport climbing,you don’t really have to know self-rescue,cos’ you go up only 30 meters no more,and you come down.It’s not hard to get in bad situations,because the ground is close.But you do multipitches climb,see you rappel down 3 pitches,and the rope get stuck at the top, and you can’t get down until you can fix the rope.
 我想首先要说的是，一个很棘手的情况是如果你正在爬一条线路，如果发生了什么（比如说落石），总之有人陷进了很大的麻烦，这时如果你知道如何对付，就能很容易的解决问题。
 如果是竞技攀登，自救的知识就不是很必要，因为你只是上30米不会再多了，然后就下来，因为离地面很近很近，应该不会出什么大麻烦。但是，如果你攀的是多段的线路，想想看你得下降三段，忽然绳子在上面卡住了，搞不定它，你可就下不来了。
 
 ANCHOR
 Take a long slings as a double,double shoulder.I mean if you fold it around,it is double shoulder…So if you can take ? and pull it down in direction of loading and change the knot make the stitch on the right ,and you can tie in this .If you have enough,tie in a figure-8 cos’it’s easier to untie later.If it is to short,you can tie an overhand knot,but it will be tighter, and harder to untie.And the nice thing we create here is one Master Point,everyone can clip in,clip on.
 拿一个双肩长的绳套，就是说把它叠起来之后正好套在肩上。把它扣进每个小锁，然后拉向受力的方向，把绳套上的结或是缝合处调一下（放在你之后打的节和小锁之间）。然后你可以打个结，如果够长的话就打八字结，因为之后比较好解。如果绳套太短，打个单节也行，但是它会很紧，不好解开。这就是我们制作的一个好东东??Master Point，每个人都可以挂上来。
 If I pull down here and I clip into this,is this right?
 NO
 One anchor break…three climber on the ? .They clip like this,and they are talking ，pulling a haulbag up,and the haulbag drop….this anchor is small,like 6 milimeters,and the haulbag hit the anchors,one bolts break,and the all fell 400 meters.So the essential of ? ,Jong Long,the guy writing a lots of climbing books,calls it the ?(slider knot),so here is a ?.And now if one anchor is down,we are still in it.But see we have an extension,so this is to give you an extention,that is the disadvantage.But the advantage is the direction changes,you can still use it.Their ? are really good,if you bolts are good,it doesn’t matter,…
 
 看如果我这样扣大锁（没打任何结，也没有任何套），对吗？
 当然不对！
 如果一个保护完蛋了话，后果可想而知。记得有三个攀岩者在XXX处攀岩，他们就是这样挂的。他们一边聊着，一边往上拉拉他们的吊袋，吊袋一掉下去，这个保护点有很不牢，大概是6毫米的一个钉，被吊袋一狂拽就完蛋了，结果他们几个一下子掉了400米。所以非常必要的是做这样一步，John Long（Advanced Rock Climbing的另一个作者），这个写了很多关于如何攀岩的书的老兄管它叫？（不好意思这里听不清楚，但书上是叫slider knot―滑动结）。那么现在如果一个保护完了的话，我们还不会掉下去，但是看我们是会有一个冲坠，这是这种方法的缺点，但优点是方向可变，所以还是可以用的，如果你的两个保护点都很棒的话，那就没什么问题了。
 
 The cordelette are really good.If you have 3 or 4 anchors.This is nylon,this is the really like different cords like ? and Spectra,they are bunch of them,they are very strong,stronger than nylon.If you have nylon,this must be at least 6 mm.This stuff is small and compact and really strong,so I like very.
 If you have 3 anchors,this is the very common system for 3 anchors.Try to make a knot,now we have a Master Point,so everyone can clip in,everyone can clip on this just one place.
 There is one thing is really important,is you don’t want this angle to get very large.This is dangerous because the angle is getting too large.Ideally the angle should be 60 degree or less,90 degree is OK,but not so great.If you get to 120 degree,do you know the force is?Get to 120 degree, if I pull 1000 kilograms,now the force on each will be 1000 kilogram exactly.The larger the angle,the greater the force.
 如果你有三到四个保护点的话，用cordlette特别好（Craig的最爱，直译是细绳）。这个是尼龙的，还有一些不同的材料像？（又听不清，不过书上提到一种perlon的材料），或是Spectra（直译是光谱，可能是品牌的名字），还有很多种非常结实的，比尼龙要强。如果你手里的是尼龙，必须至少六厘米的直径。这东东又小又简洁又结实，所以我很喜欢。
 
 如果是三个保护点，也是最常见的系统。（把cordlette扣入每一个小锁）打一个结，我们就有了一个Master Point，每个人都能挂到这个位置来。
 有一点很重要的是，你不要把这个角度弄得太大了，如果会很危险太大了。理想的是一个小于等于60度的角，90度也将就，但不是很好。如果你弄到了120度，直到这上面承受的力是多大吗？到了120度的话，我底下拉1000公斤，上面的每个保护点都要承受1000公斤，角度越大，承受力也就越大。
 
 CLIMBING UP A ROPE
 So the most ? when the people mule it call it a Prusik,and a Prusik is good because it give you the most friction ,if you are on a new slippery rope,this one will have the most chance to force in.And if I being around two strands of rope,I shall say it is easily to have the friction.If I am hanging below from climb,if I have one strand,say it is a new rope,and I say it will be hard because(the friction is not so great).
 普鲁士结非常的好使,它能产生很大的摩擦力,如果你用的是一条又新又滑的绳子,这种结能最大限度的承受拉力.如果是双绳,这个结非常容易就抓住了,而如果我是在攀爬的时候掉了下来,吊在一根绳子上的话,就有点不是很好了,因为摩擦力变小了很多.
 Do not make the knot too tight,cos if you can’t untie it,you can’t use it for the futther rescue.Ok,first,if you have got a double length sling and two normal slings,you can use that for the top one.So what else I set up here is,one of you will climb,and one of you will belay,so you go up,someone will belay you,so make you safe,you don’t fall.
 So the Bachman is nice,because it slide easier,so I clip in this sling or I use cord you will see in a minute,and I put the carabiner here,and I wrap around the rope,then carabiner,around the rope, the carabiner, and the I test it ,ok it locks.
 平常的时候,不要把双渔人结(绳套结)打得太紧(或是经常拆一下),因为如果到时候你打不开它,就没法用来作接下来的救援了.好了，首先你拿一个双肩长的绳套或是两条普通长度的绳套，用来做第一个抓结。注意我在旁边设置的（副保护），你们其中一个在练的时候，另一个为他保护，这样你上去之后，是有人保护你的，你是安全的，如果你不小心掉了下来，不至于落到地上。
 巴克曼结更好，他很容易滑动。这样挂进一个绳套，或者你用cordelette也一样，待会儿我们就会做的。然后把小锁放在这，将绳套绕过主绳，扣进小锁，再绕绳，再是扣进小锁（大概三到五圈），然后检验一下是否能抓得住，好了，抓住了。
 
 Make a knot in on it in the middle, so I have two strands, one will go to my waist, one will go to my foot. I take a carabiner here, make another Bachman, then I test it to make sure it grasp.Great, then I slide the both as high as I can then I tie a knot here, this is going to my waist ,this is a backup. Ok,so the other is a foot loop. So if I was ?(an amazing guy ‘s name) ,I put foot up to my ear,but for me ,I put down here.You want to make it high so you climb you climb with a high step. When leaving the ground, I can go a little way now, I am OK, and I check everything to make sure, my buckle is good, and this is lock. But say if your champion is up ,and there is a big drop below me, I don’t want to trust my life to two of this(Bachman).So it is really important to a backup knot ,clip in, so if this thing slips ,I don’t die. And after I go up 5 meters (tie a new one near you ,clip in ,and untie the first one ).
 在 cordelette的中间打一个结，这样就有了两头绳子，一个连在腰上，一个来作脚环。还是用一个小锁，打一个巴克曼结，然后是一下是不是抓住了。太棒了，然后把这两个巴克曼结都推到最高的地方，然后在这儿打个结（下面的巴克曼结从小锁最后穿出的地方），一根系在腰上，做副保护用。另一端做一个脚环。如果我是XXX(这个家伙应该是韧带很牛很牛),我就把我的脚抬到耳朵这里,但我只能抬这么高。你最好把它能高一点，这样你没登起来一步就能走很长的距离。好现在我可以离开地面，稍稍上一点距离，检查一下所有的设置，安全带是不是反扣了，锁门是不是拧上了。但是如果是在悬在空中开始上升，我可不想把我的生命寄托在这仅仅两个巴克曼结上。所以非常重要的是我要做一个副保护结（在你所上升的主绳下面打一个八字），扣入大锁，这样如果巴克曼结滑脱了，我还有命。然后等你上升了5米以后，打一个新的结扣进来，把原来那个解掉。
 
 RAPPELING
 When I want to rappel down,…. Then I put a rappel device here,and then I have got to make another friction knot here .And there is a knot I tied ,put the knot off here, if a stitch ,put stitch off, I don’t want the stitch wrapped in the Autoblock.
 For friction knots , it is important to keep them nice and tidy, nice and clean,then I don’t want to twist them all make a ?,I want to make it beautiful. If I just make it clean ,it is easier to look at and
 Know that I get the right thing. And also it is going to grasp better. So stand up and slide this one down, and see it is loose ,right? So take this one off.
 如果我想下降下去，就把下降器装在主绳上，然后我得再做一个抓节（自锁结，autoblock）在下降器的下面，注意不要把绳套上的绳结或是缝合处打到结里面。
 对于一个抓节来说，最重要的是要打得干净整洁，可千万不要把它卷的七扭八歪的，要把他们打得漂漂亮亮的，这样也很容易看清楚他们是否正常的起作用，而且一个好结能抓得更牢。
 好现在站起来，把最上面这个抓节拉下来，看它是松的，这样你的重量就从抓节转移到下降器上了，然后就可以把用cordlette打的抓节解开了。（注意，这时你可以双手松开绳制动端，是因为有那个自锁抓节在下降器的下面替你制动）
 
 CLIMBING ROPE WITH MINIMAL GEAR
 Uh,this is in real life ,this is my tie in here(harness),is not ,I don’t climb(tie in with a carabiner). And I don’t this time because it take too much time. If I only have a little bit gear, so I make a Prusik, and then test it if it will lock, and then I make an overhand knot, and put a carabiner here. I did this only once before ,but it is really crazy.(what that carabiner for ?)You will see. So I have that I have slide this high enough. Cos you climb with a single rope and you fall in a overhanging ,you will hanging ? ,and you don’t have much gear ,all you have is belay device and this one is hard, it is not easy at all. And in the U.S., lots of people are very fat, right? If he is clinging ,a good climber will time in oil,? With dinners.
 So I climb back to the route, then clip into the bolt in ,then my partner can take a slack. So you guys can practice this. If you try to study it ,and then tomorrow I have something else to promise ,but you must can work out this.
 如果是真实攀登的话，我可不能用大锁连接八字结和安全带，必须直接用八字结和安全带连接，现在我是为了节省时间才这样做的。如果我只有很少的装备，我们如何沿绳上升呢？好，我还是先打一个普鲁士结，检验一下是否锁住，再打一个单结（在绳套上靠近结的地方），在单结上面扣进一个锁。我以前这样干过一回，但的却是太疯狂了。（那个大锁是做什么用的？）一会儿你就知道了。然后，我把这个普鲁士结推导最高的地方。（为什么要会用最少的装备上升）因为如果你是用单绳攀登，然后你在一个仰角的脱落了，你吊在那儿，没法回到线路上，你手里应该没有那么多的装备，顶多是个保护器，用这么少的东西来沿绳上升是挺辛苦的，一点也不简单。你们知道在美国，有很多大胖子，（做这个对他们来说尤其艰难）。
 如果他对攀岩很执著的话，就得抵御住美食的诱惑。
 等你上升回到路线上以后，就把自己挂道保护点上，这时你的搭档可以把绳松一点了（刚才的过程中保护者要一直处于制动的状态中）。大家可以好好连一下这个，你先把这个连熟了，明天我保证演示更多的东西，但大家要先把这个掌握住。
 
 RESCUE
 The situation is hard, this is the anchor on climbing you are. Take this situation, but what else we will do is , say imagine my partner is climbing below me, and 10 meters below me right now. And a rock just fall, just miss me and hit them, hit their arms very hard and they can be bleeding very hard, they can’t climb because they are hurt. So someone still be bleeding really bad, you can stop the bleeding by a strong direct pressure an the wound. So what you need to do is you get down, and give them strong pressure on the wounds. And maybe I shall tell them first “find a tape ,put it strong direct on your wound, and I get down to you.” And the first thing is if the situation is very stressful and emergent, you have to take some time to relax, you have to take a minute to plan. If you just start doing things, you might mess up, and you might waste 15 or 20 minutes, take to wonder 2 minutes, take your brain out, just relax. Think about what the problem is, think about what you know, how to do, think about what you have to do, and then tell them, say :”ok, it’s ok.” Try to be very calm, if you going out:” Oh, man, you fucked! Oh, shit! What will I do? What am I going to do?” Then the stress is going to be very high.(Oh, no, this is on recording

)
 这个情况比较的棘手，假设这是我们攀爬中用的锚点，想象一下出了这样一个状况，我们应该做些什么。假如说我的搭档正在我的下方攀登，在我下面十米的地方，这时突然一块石头掉了下来，没砸到我，砸到了他的胳臂，以至于流泻不止不能继续攀登。如果有人流血不止，你应该用力的压住他的伤口，这样的话你就得先下去帮他们止血。或者你我可以告诉他们先找一块绷带自己压在伤口上。但首要的是如果情况非常的严重而且紧急，你必须先放松下来，花一分钟计划一下。如果你马上就开始着手干这干那，很有可能搞得一团糟，可能会浪费15，20分钟更多的时间。所以花两分钟用脑子好好想想，放松。看看问题到底出在哪里，你知道如何做吗，你必须做什么，然后告诉他们说：“没事，会好的。”试着语调放得平静，如果你上来就：“天！老兄，你受伤了！见鬼！我怎么办？我该怎么办？”这样的话只会让你觉得压力越来越大。（哦，不，这也录进去了）
 
 Normally, I use a cordlette to do ,but I what to show a different way to you guys, because you don’t usually have cordlette here. So now he is hurt below me, first I need to do is to free my hand. An absolutely fastest way to do is just wrap the around my leg, if it doesn’t slide. But there is a little more way is that you guys should learn anyway , it is called the Mule Knot.
 一般情况下，我都用cordlette来做救援，不过现在我用另一种方法来做（只用绳套），因为你们不经常用cordlette。好现在他在我的下方受伤了，首先我得先把我的双手解放出来。绝对最快的方法是将主绳缠在腿上，要保证不会滑脱。但是有一种更安全的方法，大家无论如何都要学会的，叫做Mule Knot（我叫它固定结）。
 
 So if I fasten the rope to here, here is a little trick that it doesn’t have anything to do with you escape the belay like this. If you are belaying someone, and they are hanging below, and you are getting to be tired for holding them, just hold it like this, you can hold them, almost no strength on your hand, and you can send the rope, they are feeding ,feeding. But if you have to hold them for 10 minutes as you grasping here, you waste your strength. So you can just put it like this ,and it doesn’t matter ,we can do it. And then pass some rope through the carabiner, and I take a coil. So you think about is there is there is one rope going into the device, one rope going out of the device, the two are together, and the coil with the third strand underneath below both of them. And then I go through here, in English, we call it a slide knot, because you can easily pull it and untie it .Ok, I don’t want to rely on and trust your life on only this, you want to back it up ,back it up very fast, now it is very safe. This is a really good way, if you are belaying someone, and you can hang in the rope for two men, you can tie in like that ,allow your hand to do something. (Can you come again?)
 好，如果我把绳子这样收着（将绳子从铁索中掏过来），这是一个小技巧，可并不代表你不认真打保护。如果你给人打保护，他在下面挂着，你觉得这样拉着他很累（一般的制动姿势），你就可以这样做，手上几乎不用什么力气，然后你可以这样子来抽绳，送绳。如果你用一般的方法拉着他们十分钟，就会很累了，那是白费力气。所以我们可以这样做，一点问题都没有。接下来，把绳子穿进大锁，并做一个绳圈。看好这里有一根绳子从保护器进来，一根绳子从保护器中出来，这两根绳子并在一起，做完绳圈之后第三根绳子搭在前面这两根的下面，然后将第三根从绳圈中穿过，在英文中我们叫它slide knot（我叫它易抽结），因为它一抽就出来非常的好解。好了，我可不想仅仅信任这一个结，把你的性命也寄托其上，我得很快打一个副保护，好现在安全了。这是一个非常好的方法，如果你在给谁打保护，用这个结下边吊两个人没问题，你可以腾开你的双手做别的事情。（在做一遍好吗？）
 
 You can use an Autoblock， four any this thing you can use for a knot, it is said some knots are better for some. So we just wrap it around, remember keep it clean, keep them nice and neat.(so please translating for )Ok, now what I can do ,first , I want to test it to make sure it can grasp, then, I can use the backside of the climbing rope, come out here, and then I tie a tie a fancy knot, you will see confusing first, after you practice, it is not so diffcult.
 在这里你可以用一个自锁结，我们学过的四种抓节都可以用，但是不同的结适用不同场合。好，我把绳套绕在主绳上，记得保证它干净漂亮（帮我翻译一下）。好，现在我先试试它是不是抓得牢，然后用你攀爬用的主绳另一端，拉到这儿来，下面我要打一个花哨的结，你一开始肯定会看迷糊的，不过练过之后就不那么难了。
 
 So the Munter Hitch is something you should know, it is know that you are doing for foot, you can do belaying, you can do rappelling, so you do a line at that, and put it in. So this is the Munter Hitch. Then I tie a Mule, the same thing I did here. In English, the combination of the Munter Hitch and the Mule Knot is Munter Mule .And the Munter Mule is a great knot, because it is releasable, you can tie someone off in a safe secure way, and you can always untie it even another 4 weight on it. So that is some one ,Munter, Mule, the backup. Now I slide it to the end(you should go back a little more)
 这个意大利半扣（Munter Hitch也叫下降结）你可必须会，是最基本的一个结，可以用来打保护，用来下降。这样打一个绳圈，压过来，扣进大锁里。这就是意大利半扣。然后再打一个固定结，就和这的一样（保护器处）。在英文中，我们把意大利半扣和固定结的组合叫做意大利固定结。这个结可是很棒的，它是可以放开的。你既可以把一个人很安全的固定在这儿，又可以很方便的再解开，就算再加四倍的重量这没问题。看好哦，意大利半扣，固定结，最后副保护单结。现在我把这个主绳上的抓结调到头。（你再往后一点吧）
 
 We always have another locking carabiner, if you don’t ,whenever if you should use a locking carabiner, if you don’t have, you can use two carabiners with the gate opposite. Ok, I need to tie a Munter Hitch ,I mean the same thing I tied here. Munter Hitch first, now the Munter Hitch can work as a belay device, so I keep my brake hand here, then can take this one off. Just it seems a lot of informations, it seems like a lot first, and you’ve got confused., but if you practice it a few times ,it’s not so hard. When you do other rescues, you can use the same knot ,the same technique. So when learn more rescue, it is not like you have to learn the whole new thing, it is you use the same thing over our knots.
 我们一般都有大锁，如果你没有的话，在任何你该用大锁而手头没有时，你可以用两个小锁锁口相反的方向放置来代替。好，我得在这里打一个意大利半扣，就像我在这里打的一样（连接抓结与主绳时候用的）。意大利半扣实际上是个保护器，我这样我这制动端，然后把我身上的保护器解下来。也许内容太多了，一开始都看起来很复杂，你可能有点晕，但是自己练几次以后，就一点都不难了。在你在做其他救援时，你可以同样的绳结，同样的技术。所以再学新的，就不是全新的东西，基本上都囊括在我们这些绳结技术里。
 
 Right now, please see I keep my brake hand to hold the rope the whole time, then take this off .And I need to get this slack out, so I pull this slack out, and then I tie a Mule, it is the same knot as I did here, and then the same knot I use a lot in self-rescue. So now I wanna double check, make sure it is right, so I look at ,make sure it is right. Now I can release this one, the advantage is releasable this knot, so pull it still ,you’ve got to go down a little bit more.
 现在，请注意我的手是一直握着制动端的，把保护器卸下来。接着我要把这儿的松绳收紧（防止伤者下滑太多）。收紧之后，在这儿打一个固定结，像我在这儿做的一样，这个结我可用了三次了（多重要啊！）。现在我一定要再检查一遍，保证一切都没问题。现在松开这个（抓结上的意大利固定结），这个结的优点就显现出来了，拉开的时候要稳，防止伤者被放下时在受伤。
 
 So now if he is 10 meters ,I can rappel down to him. One step a time, you can do too much at one ladder, you guys(we are already confused) .Now see this knot is used for 3 times. So now I don’t want to rappel down on the back side of this slip knot, that would be dangerous. So I tie a figure-8 knot, put that into here. Now I can rappel down. First saying is :”When you are rescuing someone, it is not going to help him ,if you get yourself killed.” Ok? So the first rule of rescue is you have to protect yourself first. And if you get yourself killed,they are hurt, there is no one even yelling for help ”help! help!” OK? So you have to protect yourself.
 好现在，如果他是在我下面十米，我可以下降下去。咱们一步一步来，可不能一次贪多（我们已经晕了）。看这个结有了三次。好现在我不要在这个可以拽开的结的这一段下降，太危险了。我得打一个八字结，用个大锁连在保护点上，现在可以降了。首要的是：“当你救别人的时候，如果自己不小心丧了命，你可没法帮他。”对吧，救援的首要原则就是，你必须先保护好你自己。如果你都没命了，你的同伴又受了伤，那可连能喊救命的人都没了。
 
 So when I rappel down to him , I need to free my hands off,so I can take care of him .So what I can do when I get there I can free my hands. So I wanna make an Autoblock, that is also a part of protection of myself. I make an Autoblock, can make myself a little safer.
 当你降到他那里，你需要放开双手去照顾他，怎么做能让我解放开双手呢？我可以做一个自锁结，这也是保护自己的重要步骤，一个自锁结就能很大程度上保证我的安全。
 
 So it is important , before you leave the ground climbing, before you do any rescue, critical step----double check. Ok let me take this off, and also whenever you do rescue, you tend to be lack of gears, so take all the gears as you can. I don’t want to leave this carabiner ,I want it with me, I might need it. Does anyone have one sling? Now I have this one, so I want to take this with me too. Ok, now I can rappel down to him. Ok, it is important that I tie up the rope here,next to this knot, not from my end. Now, I have all the rope as possible, he is 10 meters down there, if a 50 meters rope you get to used. Now I rappel down(DaDaDa…..)
 在你攀登之前，或是下去救援之前，很重要，很关键的一步是――再次检查。把这些没用的装备都摘下来，记住只要你是在做救援，装备只会嫌少，而不会嫌多的，尽量带上所有的。
 我可不想把这个大锁留在这，带上，很有可能用得到的。你们身上有绳套吗？哦，这儿有，把它也带上。好，现在我要降到他那里。记住一定要在主绳上靠近意大利固定结的地方，把这个八字结固定在锚点上，而不是在我这已端，这样我能有尽可能长的绳子下降，他在下面十米处，那你就有差不多50米的绳子用（假设60米的绳子），哦，下来救你了！
 
 Ok, now he is really hurt, hanging like this, one thing I need to do right away, is to make a chest harness. Push him up, put him like that, so that will help to hold him. If he is hurt bad, he is having trouble of breathing, sometimes can’t breathe. Sometimes if you have really , intradermic injury, people will die because they can’t breathe, because their way gets compressed. If you can hold him like this, you might help him to breathe.
 (It is kind of way when you are on the top) He is hurt below.
 他伤得挺厉害的，这样吊在这儿（好可怜），我得马上给他做个胸式安全带。把它推起来，挂在这儿，这样就能兜住他的身体。因为如果他真的伤得厉害，他会呼吸困难，甚至没法呼吸。有时会是很严重的内伤，人就会因为这样吊着呼吸道受压迫而死掉。如果你能把他兜起来，像这样，他就可以呼吸了。
 （这是当你在上面保护时的做法）对，他是在下方受伤。
 
 When Leader is injures on the top, it is very complicated, later I can show you guys. We are gone of time for everyone to do that, but I will show you. You can start practicing it till working. It is all same kind of things, if the leader is hurt above, you have to escape the belay, as I just did, climb the rope as I just did before, take care of him like this, and you go back down the rope , you untie from the anchors, after you make sure another at the top there, and then you go back up, and you rappel with him. And I will show you ,maybe later. This is as much as I can show you now, and I suggest some of you guys practice to do this one, that will be hard for tonight.
 如果是领攀者受伤了，那就复杂了，待会儿我可以给大家演示一下。我们没时间让每个人都去练了，只能演示一下。你们可以先把这个练会了。其实都是一样的道理，如果领攀者受伤了，你得像刚才那样先脱出保护，像前面学的沿绳上升，像这样打理好他，然后在上面做好一个新的锚点之后，再下降回原来的锚点，拆下绳子，然后再爬上去，最后带着他一起降下来。可能待会儿我能演示给你们，但现在我只能教这么多了，我建议你们实际的练一练，今晚内容已经有点多了，比较难消化。
 
 
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