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无论如何这都是1996年珠峰山难的翻版
瑞士的Karl Gabl博士是提供天气预报,每天从瑞士因斯布鲁克气象和地球动力中央研究所向各地传送气象信息.很多队伍都购买了.
看到原来计划是11号活动结束,天气影响拖的太久,冲顶遇上坏天气,过早吸氧引起身体滞后反应,攀登路线非全程路绳,下撤时路线不熟悉,向导和夏尔巴不得力,队员缺乏攀登经验,后方没有支援力量……所有的因素都赶到一起了,而酿成悲剧的内在因素呢?他们为什么去登道拉吉里?商业登山的生存法则是什么?像刃脊探险这样的公司为什么会关门?把上述问题都串在一起,就知道诱发悲剧的原因了。
说到底,中国的登山发展不可避免地要重复欧美十多年的老路,时间会消磨一切,生活的?性会让你来不及思考……
瑞士队的报告
http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19363
Dhaulagiri: Rescue report from BC
“We’ve had no summit push chances yet ? the window last week was too narrow, risks too high; we are all waiting in BC, expect for two team members forced back to Switzerland due to lack of further expedition time,” Kari Kobler team leader Richard Bolt reported.
“A Chinese expedition hoped to summit on the mountain 50th anniversary on May13th. So, in spite of bad weather forecasts, 7 climbers and 7 sherpas set off from BC on May 11th.”
According to Richard, the Chinese used O2 from C1, and proceeded in spite of increasing wind. On summit day, their pace was so slow that they only reached the summit by nightfall and had to force a bivouaq through the stormy night.
“Conditions were too bad for us to consider a rescue operation,” Bolt, a UIAGM Mountain guide stated. “Luckily, a short improvement in conditions and the presence of the highly skilled Swiss Pilots from Air Zermat (jointly with Fishtail) in Nepal, permitted the B3 chopper to fly and perform an amazing rescue at 6,500m, retrieving the surviving Chinese and Sherpas.”
Three Chinese climbers lost their lives according to the report. A previous news report by state press agency Xinhua said one Chinese climber had perished on Dhaula.
In a later update today from the Himalayan rescue service -a cooperation of Fishtail Air and Air Zermatt- it is reported that the service rescued seven climbers from an altitude of 6800 meter and 6100 meter. The rescue crew used two different approaches (human sling operation and hovering) to evacuate the seven wounded Chinese mountaineers and Sherpa's.
Since the beginning of the current season, the new rescue service has performed rescue operations at altitude on Manaslu, Annapurna, Everest, Dhaulagiri and a number of 6000er and 7000ers. |
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