* 贴子主题:周末去了小五台 Kristian
因为听说从赤崖堡不让上北台和东台了,我们就搭绿野福尔马林的队伍从西金河口进山。我本来想走一把冬季的北东穿越,结果没走成,还差点把自己走残了。去年曾经走过一次北东,不过是在夏天,从赤崖堡东沟上的,但是我的脑袋短路了,总是觉得是从西金河口上的,因此就信心满满的上去了。沿着河谷走了很远,好在有地图和GPS,一直能够准确的确定自己的方位。最后走到北台的正下(南)方,发现前面的坡度很陡,就掉头下撤了。
因为怕天气不好,我们背了全套的冬季装备,又预备山脊上有雪,带了冰镐、爪,绳子和岩石器材,重死了。走的巨痛苦,赵鲁晚上撒尿颜色都不对了,深红色带絮状沉淀,怕是有红血球什么的。
Most of the Canadian/US ice climbers in Thunder Bay area use Mammut Genesis 8.5 mm (60 m long) double rope. It is very popular. We just trust that rope.
A few use 8mm Mammut Phoenix. The thinnest used here is 7.5 mm Mammut Twilight, the twin rope, not double. Most of us feel that it is too thin to be trusted.
Kristian
和Bince的对话
2003-11-19 18:35:57 Wang Bince 在马?
2003-11-19 18:36:10 Bince Wang 人在那
2003-11-19 18:36:38 Wang Bince 看看我春节登山计划
2003-11-19 18:36:40 Wang Bince http://www.rockbeer.org/bbs/topic.php?forumid=1&topicid=1069234421
2003-11-19 18:42:12 Bince Wang 我靠,婆缪还是那个婆缪:-O
2003-11-19 18:42:29 Wang Bince
2003-11-19 18:42:39 Bince Wang 路线长吗,你那个山
2003-11-19 18:43:23 Wang Bince 如果到达了环行谷地的雪线,之后的路线应该就不长了
2003-11-19 18:43:42 Wang Bince 现在主要是上那个谷地没谱
2003-11-19 18:44:36 Bince Wang 东西少带不了
2003-11-19 18:45:44 Wang Bince alpine style结组上应该带不了多少东西。
2003-11-19 18:47:21 Bince Wang 红线是山脊吧?
2003-11-19 18:47:30 Wang Bince 一顶帐篷,一套炉子,个人的卧具、食品。两条绳子、8-10个冰锥、一套岩石器材、2根雪锥、一柄雪铲就差不多了
2003-11-19 18:47:33 Wang Bince 是
2003-11-19 18:48:17 Bince Wang 这也不少了
2003-11-19 18:49:52 Bince Wang 走东壁,上北脊?
2003-11-19 18:50:31 Wang Bince 我还有另外2张照片,晚上用数码相机翻拍一下再放上去,有一张是从8狼山口拍的,其中一个峰尖应该是这个山,很NB的,如果爬下来,绝对是小柏树一样的经典路线。
2003-11-19 18:51:02 Wang Bince 是,走东壁,上北脊,然后再转北壁(最后一段)
2003-11-19 18:56:07 Bince Wang 我乐意借你tempest23,用得着吗?
2003-11-19 18:56:21 Wang Bince 你想一起去吗?
2003-11-19 18:56:38 Wang Bince 我现在主要是要找人
2003-11-19 18:57:04 Bince Wang 最近手头手头有点紧:S
2003-11-19 18:57:29 Wang Bince 我觉得我的经验还欠缺一点
2003-11-19 18:58:07 Bince Wang 那倒不是,多个人商量,鼓鼓劲也是好的
2003-11-19 19:00:46 Wang Bince 我估计2000以里肯定可以了。火车票往返800(如果坐普快多一宿剩300元),往返小金Bus100多一点。剩下就是马匹。我联系卢忠荣应该可以拿到 70-80/天,我估计我们4-5匹马就差不多了。
2003-11-19 19:01:57 Bince Wang 现在有谁?
2003-11-19 19:02:23 Wang Bince 赵鲁无碰
2003-11-19 19:03:30 Wang Bince 绿叶的几个人想去那边攀冰,他们可能想开车去,这样我们可以搭便车,去小金挤方便多了。
2003-11-19 19:03:55 Wang Bince 我又找了一张图放上去了
2003-11-19 19:04:17 Bince Wang 有此山东面详细一点的图吗?下部
2003-11-19 19:06:06 Bince Wang 在那?新图?
2003-11-19 19:06:23 Wang Bince 晚上还有一张照片,有一些帮助。下面主要是石坡、高山灌木和草甸,如果找不到路爬起来会很累,我想联系当地向导看看。
2003-11-19 19:06:55 Bince Wang 这季节那边怎么样
2003-11-19 19:09:55 Wang Bince 气候略微冷一些,但比春秋稳定,降雪少,但是不化。东壁和北壁以冰为主,特别是北壁。南壁有个白帽子,很漂亮,晚上我发去年冬天的照片。白天抓绒就可以了,营地用羽绒服,夜间温度不低于-10C
2003-11-19 19:10:42 Bince Wang 风大吗?
2003-11-19 19:12:52 Wang Bince 不大。我去年从初一呆到初十,有2次下雪、一次大雾,没有大风,白天温度都不低,感觉应再5-10C以上
2003-11-19 19:14:47 Bince Wang 那时候那边人多吗?
2003-11-19 19:16:10 Wang Bince 外靠,人不少,但比5、1少多了。外地的少、四川本地多。5、1是全国各地的都多。可能因为春节人们还是愿意家里呆着,或者怕山上吃苦
2003-11-19 19:17:00 Bince Wang 明白,会不会物价上涨,物资短缺
2003-11-19 19:17:07 Wang Bince 新图片上去了,你看看
2003-11-19 19:17:50 Bince Wang ok,待会再和你联系
2003-11-19 19:20:19 Wang Bince 马匹肯定会涨价。四姑娘非旅游季一般是50,5、1/10、1高达100-200,我们去年春节是80/100?。东西便宜,吃住25/天,藏民做饭就那么会事,对付吃吧。米面食品都不贵,但是见不到蔬菜,我们是从成都带过去的
Kristian
这是从8朗山口拍的,和大川的视角相同。从黑色山体的3个峰尖可以判断,与他们相连的正中的有白帽子的主峰就是我们的目标山峰,这是从差不多正南的方向看的
这条山脊的正后面(正北)就是婆缪
http://bbs.rockbeer.org/attachment/XFR1069378828.jpg
If you go to Chengdu, I would highly highly recommend you to go to that He(2) Shi(4) Gu Ke Yi yuan (it is located on Cha dian zi jie). The doctor, He(2) Jun(4)-zhi(4), is my super hero. Two years ago, I had a torn ligment on my left ankle from a bike accident. Because his treatment, now I am trouble free.
Dean Potter 2003年的成就
http://www.climbing.org/viewtopic.php?topic=1038&forum=15
看过master 5吧?那个solo el captain,在峭壁上狂奔,在大峡谷上走绳的人?他就是Dean Potter,他保持着多项速度攀登(不是人工墙的速度赛,而是big wall)和solo的记录,太牛了。
Dean Potter夫妻的Epitaph
http://www.climbing.org/viewtopic.php?topic=1037&forum=15
以前看过一段录像,dean potter爬那段内角的姿势让人印象深刻。
Kristian
继续。
关于瑜伽的问题我是这样看的:攀岩说白了和体操什么的比较象,身体控制力很重要。训练和增长控制力的手段有很多种,瑜伽是其中的一种。爬本身是对提高“爬”的所有素质的最均衡的训练方法,但未必是提高某个专项能力的最好方法,就象提高大臂肌肉最好的方法是引体一样。所以针对自己的短处采用某些其它训练方法不但不是缘木求鱼,而且可能是补“木桶”的好方法。
jane
瑜伽讲究调整呼吸,身心合一,精神集中,许多高级的瑜伽的姿势很难做,不仅要求柔韧和平衡,而且要求超常的身体控制力(力量和耐力)。
Sylvain Millet
"...Some 9c will be realized soon!"
by FreakClimbing.com, 4 June 2004
This time super Freak-Sylvain did it!! After 3 years since the first ascent of "Biographie" (commonly known as "Realization") has been repeated!
Let's see what he told us!!
Well Sylvain, where do we start? From some beer to celebrate?
Ok, but let's start with a little be of history!
It’s Jean-Christophe Lafaille who bolted the route in 89-90, only one pitch of approximately 35m and he named it Biographie.
In 95 Arnaud Petit starts to work the route, as it seems too hard for him to link it, he puts an intermediate belay stance at approximately 18-20m, it will link to this belay stance the next year. Chris Sharma repeated this first part in 97, and I did the same in 99. Chris links to top in 2001 after having worked it in 97 and 2000. He named it "Realization".
For me the route is called "Biographie", the first part is just a half-route that doesn’t have a real existence (there is no enormous rest position, no overhang break, or another reason to justify the stop of a route at the intermediate belay stance)."
Sylvain on "Biographie" 9a+ ph: Yannick Bourgeois
? AlpesMountain
Well, so we will refer to "The Route" as "Biographie"!
Tell us a little bit about You, do You do something else in life or are You a “professional”?
I’m a student. Until last year, I was in an engineer school in Lyon, while this year I'm in in Gap taking correspondence courses to prepare an exam to become professor.
Why did it take so long to repeat Biographie? What Special?
Because there are boulder sections, resistance sections, rest positions are not so good and therefore you need a lot of stamina, it’s technical, there are a lot of different methods and you must find the one which is the best for you. Furthermore... it’s a "very" little bit hard.
In fact “Biographie” isn’t the only 9a+ around the world. What makes it so special then? Apparently it isn’t just the grade, the “number”
I think it’s because of the purity of the line, the beauty of the route, in a splendid cliff. And also because it has waited more than 10 years for a first ascent!
Love or hate for “Biographie”?
Love! For life!
Any special celebration after getting “Biographie”
Many celebrations...
Did You do any special training to get it, or did You just climb on rock?
I climbed a lot on rock, sometimes on climbing walls (maybe 1-2 times a week on average) and I did some training weekends with the French team.
Try to immagine that in your sponsorship contracts the prize for solving “Biographie” was a night with a famous top model: who is the lucky girl?
What a macho question!! Some 9c will be realized soon... is Monica Bellucci free??**
Sylvain on "Biographie" 9a+ ph: Yannick Bourgeois
? AlpesMountain
What would have been more important for You: to do “Biographie” or to win the last leg of World Cup in Imst?
Difficult question…..but I think I prefer to have done "Biog".
Do You also do some bouldering? What do You think about bouldering?
Not so much, maybe twice in a year. It’s too scary.
Do You normally climb in France or do You also like road-trips abroad?
I climb essentially in France, and essentially in Céüse, but why not going somewhere else…
Where would You like to go for a road trip?
Australia, South Africa....
Which is the best way to live climbing?
Like you want …
Plans and projects for the future?
I don’t know …. Climbing why not ??
裂缝
Eric把hit吹成世界上最好的指力训练法,谁能够抵挡这种宣传呢?昨天在抱石吧我试着做了一次。
感觉受条件所限,点不够多,难以严格执行。掉下来也许是脚点或技术不好,而不是指力。
可行的办法是找4个完全一样的点,左右手上下交替做,直到力竭,这样容易控制。
open hand不如在指力板上好做。
full crimp建议不要做,我几次手指受伤都是反复做需要crimp的抱石问题形成的。
Height: 17,759 feet (5,413 meters)
Location: Sichuan Province, China, Asia
Lat/Lon: 31°N, 103°E
Maintainer: Kenzo Okawa -- View Contributors
Last Edited: Jan 26, 2004
Pomiu
Overview
Pomiu is a knife edged rock peak in southwestern China.
In 1984, Allen Steck and another mountaineer of the AAC member made first ascent.
Reffer to the 1984 American Alpine Journal, page 43.
And in 1985, Keith Brown of the AAC member made second ascent with new route. It is hard to climb.
Reffer to "http://www.kbrown.kinformation.com/htm_mount/mountain.htm". (这个页面已经找不到了)
As tourism rapidly increases in the region, this could probably change soon.
Pomiu is part of the Four Girls (Siguniang) Mountains, a beautiful Nature Reserve with many sharp rock peaks, lakes and marshes.
Glaciers shaped the area in a distant past. The highest peak in the region is Four Girls Mountain itself, reaching up to 6250m.
The area is known for it’s abundance of blooming flowers and alpine plants. Also, a lot of medicinal herbs can be found.
The Four Girls region is at the east end of the Tibetan cultural sphere. Many Tibetans live in this area for more than 1000 years.
The main living basis is pasturage and agriculture.
http://www.mef.org.uk/NewFiles/02e11.html
Expedition Reports 2002 - summarised by Bill Ruthven
Region: Himalaya - China & Tibet
02/11 - British 'Great Walls of China' 2002
Mike (Twid) Turner (with Paul Donnithorne, Alun Richardson and Louise Thomas) September-October 2002
Although the Qionglai Range of mountains in Sichuan Province lie in an easily accessible National Park much visited by local tourists, they has received little previous interest from mountaineers. This team planned to explore the area, and attempt rock routes on two of the many unclimbed peaks. Donnithorne & Richardson climbed an 8-pitch pinnacle with pitches up to E3 on one of these, but retreated without going to the summit due to storms and snow. Meanwhile, Turner & Thomas reached a col at c.5000m and began climbing a ridge above but were also forced to retreat, leaving equipment in place for a return visit.
http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/highmountainmag/mountaininfo/dec2001/mtninfodec2001.htm
The history of mountaineering in the Siguniang, a concentraton of medium-altitude granite peaks, is fairly brief. Japanese climbed the highest peak, Siguniang (officially 6,250m but thought to be as much as 330m lower) in 1981 and two years later Allen Steck led an American team on the first ascent of Celestial Peak (5,334m) via the South West Face (5.10c). Fixed ropes and bolts were used on the often naturally-unprotectable granite. Several impressive first ascents on more ice/mixed terrain have been made solo by globe-trotting American, Charlie Fowler, and in 1997, Americans, Jeff Hollenbaugh and Mike Pennings, climbed a 10-pitch 5.9 on a rock peak southwest of Celestial. Much of the granite is of a slabby nature and while Hollenbaugh is quoteed in the American Alpine Journal as saying the rock is good but not Yosemite, Patagonia or Pakistan, the Italians likened it to climbing in the Mello Valley (Bregaglia-Masino) with few continuous crack systems. Unfortunately, the only time when stable weather periods are likely is in winter. The region appears to be subjected to two monsoon airstreams and during the autumn, probably the best period for the rock climber, the weather can at best be described as very unstable, with snow falling as low as the base of the walls. Acting on a hunch, Luebben and friends returned in the winter of 2001 and investigated the southern valleys for accessible ice. They discovered a wealth of icefall climbing and created around a dozen routes up to WI6+.
6人队攀登日程计划:
营地装备:3顶双人高山帐,一顶大本营大帐篷(兼作炊事帐篷);
路线按30个Pitch计算,每Pitch 50米,路线长度按1500米计算,攀登高度1000米。C1建在第10 Pitch处;C2建在第20 Pitch处。
6人分为ABC三组。
Day 1:北京出发
Day 2:火车上
Day 3:经成都至日隆,联系马匹,驮工,宿日隆
Day 4:早晨出发经藏寺废墟,两河口到达婆缪山岩壁基部,建BC(4400米)
Day 5:适应,不适者下木骡子(3600米)适应
Day 6:A组修路5 Pitchs,将富裕装备留在第5 Pitch;BC两组分别运输物资至第5 Pitch;三组都撤回BC休息。三顶小帐篷在BC。
Day 7:B组空身上至第5 Pitch,取装备修路至C1营地,留下富裕装备,下撤BC;C组将建营物资运输至C1处建立C1,宿C1;A组运输物资至C1,下撤BC。两顶小帐篷在C1,一顶在BC。
Day 8:C组修路至第15 Pitch,留下装备,空身下撤BC休整;A组从C1取装备,运输至第15 Pitch,宿C1;B组运输装备至C1,下撤BC。两顶小帐篷在C1,一顶在BC。
Day 9:A组从第15 Pitch取装备,修路至C2,下撤BC休整;B组从C1取装备,运输至C2建营,下撤宿C1;C组运输至第15 Pitch,宿C1;两顶小帐篷在C1,一顶在C2。
Day 10:三组下撤BC或木骡子休整。
Day 11:BC两组上BC休整。
Day 12:BC两组上C1,A组上BC。
Day 13:B组从第15 Pitch取装备,修路至第25 Pitch,下撤宿C1;C组运输至C2,宿C2;A组运输至C1,宿C1。两顶小帐篷在C2,一顶在C1。
Day 14:C组修路至顶峰,登顶,下撤至C1接应;AB两组上C2。两顶小帐篷在C2,一顶在C1。
Day 15:AB两组登顶,撤C2帐篷,下撤C1;C组撤BC;三顶小帐篷在C1。
Day 16:AB两组撤C1帐篷回BC,C组上C1运输物资回BC。攀登结束。
Day 17:待机,等天气;
Day 18:待机,等天气;
Day 19:待机,等天气;
Day 20:待机,等天气;
Day 21:返回;
Day 22:返回。
It is uncool to follow other's foot step. Be the leader , man!
砾岩
要翻就干脆翻本新的吧。
Kristian
极限高山可不是简单的“技术型”,依我看,那玩意真不是一般人能玩的。
这几天一直在看,真是不错,很多观点是很新颖的。我给书包了个书皮,但是翻的多了,还是会变旧,希望伍鹏回来不要锤我。
现在时髦的东西我们还赶不上,这个冬天看看能不能整个mixed路线,另外要练练寒冷天气下攀岩和aiding的技术,积累些经验,我在这些方面基本上就是空白,争取明年回婆缪再尝试一把。
woodhead
台湾版本的翻译不错啊,文采不错,翻译也还准确,只是一些名词跟大陆不一样。
我感觉,让大陆的人翻译,或者一群人翻译,质量监控恐怕比较困难。
mh
我最多能帮助校对一下.其实把台湾的版本转换为简体然后查找/替换一些词就不错.
jane
老K, 这不是什么赶时髦,他山之石可以攻玉, 我是玩票的,但向高手学习,提高很快
,我根据自己的条件挑自己适用的 (简单的,力所能级的,而不是照搬招抄。