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“如果你的头低得过了,你的后颈就暴露出来了,如果低得不够,冰可能砸到你的脸.如果你能看到你的帽前沿,这个位置就刚好……”
原文地址：华之冰雪岩http://climbhua.blog.sohu.com/93699736.html
Use your head ... and your feet
By David Roetzel
译者： 华仔
译者注：（原文发表于www.climbing. com，译者尽可能如实的翻译原文，本文仅供参考。如需转载，请全文转载并注明出处，以便大家更好的理解本文！）
Regardless of how much better ice-climbing equipment gets ― better tools, easier-to-place screws, heel spurs, or better clothing ― ice climbing has a different learning curve than rock, and, in general, it’s best not to fall off. Trial, error, and experience are the keys to improvement. Here are a few tips to help you along the curve.
无论你的攀冰装备如何,更好的技术镐,更容易旋进的冰锥,带马刺的冰爪,或者更好的功能性服装-----学习攀冰相比攀岩来讲要走更多弯路,按通常话来讲就是攀冰的时候先锋永不脱落.各种尝试,错误和经验是攀冰水平提高的关键.这里是一些帮助你少走弯路的技巧.
Tip your lid, you’ll be glad you did. Dodging dinner plates of ice is a dangerous part of ice climbing. Like any dodge game, you’re bound to take some hits, but where you take your lumps is the real concern. Use your helmet for what it was designed for ― taking impacts. To be combat ready, your helmet’s front brim should be positioned just above your eyebrows and securely positioned on your head.
稍低一下你的头盔,你会觉得这么做是多么的明智.攀冰的时候如何闪避上方掉下的盘子那么大的落冰是必须要面对的危险.其它的躲闪游戏,你可以跳开,但你在冰上不可能那么敏捷.你的头盔就是为这些情况而设计的----挨砸(可不可以大叫,让落冰来得更猛烈一些吧,呵呵).现在准备好迎接战斗了,你的头盔是带稳了的,帽沿正好比眉毛稍高.
Always be alert for the sights and sounds of ice breaking loose ― these are your best warnings that you’re about to contend with falling ice. Next time you’re swinging and a piece of ice comes loose, tilt your head down and slightly towards the arm that’s swinging. If done properly, the brim of your helmet should end up just lower than your eye’s horizontal plane. This is a subtle movement ― tip your head too far forward and you expose your cervical spine; tip it too little and the ice might hit your face. Looking up with your eyes while maintaining the tipped-brim position allows you to see, and keeps you protected.
时刻要警惕落冰,眼睛要放尖,耳朵要灵光-----这也是你和落冰战斗的最好的预警.当你在冰上刨的正欢的时候,一块冰掉下来了.你稍低一下头,轻轻的转到你胳膊的方向.如果做的适当的话,你的帽沿正好比你眼睛的水平视线稍低.这是非常微妙的一瞬间------如果你的头低得过了,你的后颈就暴露出来了,如果低得不够,冰可能砸到你的脸.如果你能看到你的帽前沿,这个位置就刚好,这时候你要保持你的保护.
Perpendicular and flat make crampon placements fat. Unlike in rock climbing where we often stand on our tip-toes, sound crampon placements result from keeping your feet flat so your crampons remain horizontal. Standing on your toes brings your heels up, forcing your front points down, possibly causing them to sheer. To avoid the whip, keep your heels level with, or, lower than, your front points. This angle of attack provides the most secure crampon placement, and brings your secondary points closer to the ice.
冰爪要掌握好入冰角度.攀冰跟攀岩不一样,攀岩经常是用脚趾来站立.冰爪放置充分的结果是你的脚是水平的.那么,你的冰爪也是保持水平的.如果你是用脚趾受力,你的后跟就会抬起,所以要向下压脚后跟,调整角度.保持你的后跟水平或者比前齿稍低些,这样可以避免突然的跌落.前齿的入冰角度正确的话能使你更安全,而且紧跟着前齿的立齿正好抵在冰面上.
This is obvious when you’re kicking straight in front of you, but what happens when you need to kick out to either side? More often than not, kicking to the side leaves your inside points touching and the outside points barely contacting ice. To counter this, move your heel away from your body by rotating the top of your leg inside your hip’s ball-and-socket joint. Your foot and front points should now be perpendicular to the ice. As you kick, remember to keep your toes up and your heel low, allowing both the front points and the secondary points to hit the ice.
非常明显,当你垂直踢冰的时候,你踢了一次又一次,那里踢得烂成了个小坑,前齿还只刚刚接触冰面.相反,如果你象图示的那样把你的屁股当作一个绞链,压低了脚后跟摆腿去踢冰.你的脚和前齿正好可以水来入冰.记住,当你踢冰的时候,抬高脚趾,压低后跟.那么你的两个前齿和紧接着的两个立齿都可以入冰.(四个齿入冰,显然稳多了)
Kicking with a stiffy to clear a bulge. Clearing an ice bulge can be difficult. Kicking in the typical manner (where your knee joint acts as a hinge) almost always leaves your front points pointing downwards, not straight in. Rather than using your knee like a hinge, gently lock it, lift the front of your crampons up and swing your leg from the hip. Ideally, your knee remains stiff throughout the motion, keeping your toes higher than your heels, which helps engage your front and secondary points at the moment of impact.
锁住膝盖消除撅屁股的习惯.改掉撅屁股的习惯是困难的.踢冰的典型动作(你的膝盖像一个绞链)总是最后让你的前齿是朝下的,而不是垂直于冰面.所以不要让你的膝盖像个铰链,,要轻轻锁住膝盖,用你的转臀动作摆动你的大腿,使你的冰爪前齿稍向上,理想状况下,你的膝盖在整个动作中是保持僵硬的,让你的脚趾比后跟高些,这样能帮助你的前齿和紧接着的两个立齿能瞬时入冰.
上一篇：登山中合理的拖包系统 下一篇：拉合尔街头的车
分享 | 评论 (2) | 阅读 (62) | 固定链接 | 类别 (仁者乐山) | 发表于 21:13
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clear a bulge的意思应该是翻越鼓包
发布者 自由之魂・The Free Spirits (http://thefreespirits.blog.sohu.com/)
2009-03-08 20:54 回复
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嗯,谢谢冬冬的提醒.
当时我也考虑过,这个地方最后是意译的,结合上下文前面后面的意思好象没有讲到翻越鼓包.但膝不锁住的话最后表现出来的动作就是撅屁股.
发布者 华之冰雪岩 (http://climbhua.blog.sohu.com/)
2009-03-08 21:19 回复 |
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发表于 2009-12-15 09:51:51
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